Photo by the author

The Basics

Timing is important! Water temps come into play as fall steelhead are not going to migrate upstream when the water is too warm. Generally, streams run in the upper 50’s into the 60’s in October around the Great Lakes, but towards the end of the month, water temps will drop 5 – 10 degrees, which is ideal for steelhead (do not confuse these fish with summer-run fish that tolerate much higher temperatures during migration).

While salmon species are busy spawning and dying, steelhead do not spawn until late winter/early spring (and they can repeat spawn multiple times if released). Steelhead are not distracted or physically exhausted by the rigors of spawning yet, which is one reason why they are so attractive anglers – their power supply is at 110 percent.

Photo by James Siguenza

A fair number of steelhead will follow salmon upstream during their fall spawning runs and gorge on eggs that drift off the back of redds (spawning beds). When salmon are done spawning, steelhead will often occupy deeper runs adjacent to gravel flats where they are afforded refuge and expend less energy as water temps cool.

As fall progresses into winter, additional steelhead may enter rivers at any time if water temperatures are not too cold. This is especially the case after rain or even snowmelt occurs, and sort of recharges the river. The magic cutoff water temp that halts migration is roughly 42 degrees Fahrenheit, or just a tad under. It’s important to know when this happens, because once the water is below 40 degrees, fish will lock into a given stretch of river and hold until the water warms up again – which may not occur until late-winter/spring. However, even when water temps are only a few degrees above freezing, these fish will continue to take well-placed flies and lures.

Photo by James Siguenza

TECHNIQUES:

Egg Bite

The first steelhead to migrate along with the salmon can be found feeding on eggs downstream of spawning king salmon and are without question some of the easiest to catch. Techniques that allow yarn or bead eggs to drift through the zone can be incredibly effective. Fly fishermen may use “chuck and duck” rigs that quickly take the eggs to the bottom and bounces along much like a natural egg. This is a great application for the venerable 9ft 8wt fly rod and appropriate reel. The same rig can also be used with specialized “drift style” spinning rods and reels.

The objective is to probe the “dark water” (a relatively deeper stretch of water where feeding fish hide while they forage) downstream a reasonable distance from salmon, where a steelhead or two may be lined up at the egg buffet. You can even sight fish sometimes.

When the main “egg hatch” subsides, steelhead typically relocate to deeper runs and holes, Indicator rigs cast with fly rods are very effective using the same egg patterns. This style of fishing allows a cleaner drift, albeit with more line control required. 10 to 11ft 7 weight rods, with a bit of extra flex in the mid-section to assist “mending” a floating fly line upstream, work great. Refreshingly, these gems can be found in the “cheaper” rod model lineups from most manufacturers.

Similarly, using bait casting and center-pin “float” rigs with either yarn/beads or spawn bags (real salmon eggs held by thin netting) is very effective and often the preferred choice of elite steelhead anglers.

Whitewater's Torque Heated Vest is a core saver for cold weather fishing.

The Swing

Sometime in November, steelhead begin to transition from a strict egg bite and often smash swung streamers and lures. This is when fly fishermen will take vacation time (or simply quit their jobs) to go fishing.

Swinging flies with sink-tip fly lines borders on religion for many anglers, and whether it’s a gaudy streamer or a more subdued, darkly hued natural looking one, if it goes through a steelhead’s living room, chances are it will be none too happy and lash out. There is a saying that goes “The Tug is The Drug” and if you hook a big chrome steelhead when swinging a fly, it’s not hard to understand why.

Gear is more complicated and often expensive, and casting is much more difficult using longer rods such as “spey” and “switch” rods, but this is one of the simplest forms of fly fishing in terms of presentation. Bait and gear guys are known to switch to swinging flies permanently after they’ve hooked one using this tactic. Seek advice from the experts at a fly shop if you think the swing, is your thing.

Plugs

Plug fishermen target steelhead using big-lipped plugs specially designed to be backtrolled behind the boat. These lures quickly dive into deeper runs where winter steelhead lurk. This can be very effective and a great way to put other anglers on fish who may not have the skills to feel their way through intricate drifts or cast a big streamer with a long flyrod.

While plug fishing is typically done with boats equipped with rod holders and medium to medium heavy trolling rods, some anglers cast plugs while wading or even from the bank and have good success. Plugging is another technique that requires some research and advice from experts. There is plenty of info on the web and a lot of plug fishermen are very willing to help a newbie get started.

Spinners

Good old inline spinners can also be effective by using the same principles. Cast across and slowly retrieve the spinner with the blade engaged just enough to achieve a 360 rotation around the shaft. Allow the spinner to slowly swing downstream in the current, but it must be heavy enough to get down into the zone, which is near the bottom of the river and often snaggy. You’re gonna lose some, so bring plenty.

Be sure to switch out light factory hooks with beefier ones as necessary and consider switching trebles to a single siwash style hook. Decent ball bearing swivels mitigate line twist, but be sure they are rated for chrome freight train steelhead!

Preferred rods for this style of fishing are the common 7 – 7.5ft medium/fast spinning rod and a reel with good capacity and stout drag spooled with 12lb monofilament, which offers some stretch when it’s needed (fluoro and braids do not).

EGO S2 Slider landing nets are the preferred choice in steelhead world.

Additional Necessities

You need a net and do not under-gun in this category. Boat nets should have big hoops with deep bags, and extendable handles, and as far as wading nets go – this is not the situation for smaller trout or bass nets. Thermometers are great for judging what kind of mood fish are in, and good fishing pliers as well as long forceps to extract hooks from big, toothy mouths and keep hands out of icy water. And don’t forget line clippers!

What To Wear

Steelhead fishing during fall and winter can be miserable, weather-wise. It’s often cold and wet, and hypothermia is a legit concern. What you wear is not only important for your health, but also makes you a much more engaged angler, which is a very important element of successful steelhead fishing.

Close to skin base layers should be warm and breathable, as should your insulating layer. Be sure to have a good stocking cap, as well as gloves that stay warm even when they are wet.

Stocking foot waders are great during warmer months, but they leave a lot to be desired when wading during the colder months. Boot foot waders with insulated boots are much preferred.

Thankfully, a lot of fall and winter steelhead fishing is done from a boat while staying high and dry. Insulated suits, waterproof boots, and warm socks are standard. Layering is still important, but invest in a high-end suit such as the Whitewater Great Lakes Pro Insulated, which offers not only protection from the elements, but also useful storage and handwarmer pockets plus an added degree of mobility.

Maintaining comfort while staying in the fight even when Ma Nature is throwing haymakers is how the best steelhead fishermen manage to hook and land steelhead consistently. The steelhead don’t care what it feels like above the surface, they will always be there.

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